Oaxaca! Una Ciudad Muy Bonita! Part One...

After a fairly grueling, mostly sleepless overnight bus ride on a very packed bus, I arrived in Oaxaca at 6 a.m. this past Monday morning. What a complete 180 from what I had been used to! Dry, cold and overcast, I immediately donned my down jacket and ski cap and set about the business of trying to hail a cab. For some strange reason, they mostly kept ignoring me and taking other passengers. I had to get more aggressive, despite my bleary exhaustion, and finally managed to get a cheery cabby who even spoke a smattering of English. Unfortunately, this ability did not reflect any amount of competence as a navigator. Even though my Airbnb was only about a 6 minute drive away from the bus terminal, he repeatedly went the wrong direction. I held my phone--with the Google map clearly on display--right up to his face, but somehow he simply could not follow it! Unreal. Finally, after circling the area and not finding the location, I lost patience and just had him drop me off at the closest hotel. He also could not change a 100 peso note (the fare was 60 pesos); thank goodness the nice concierge at the upscale hotel was kind enough to give me change so I could pay this pathetic driver. Needless to say, he did NOT get a tip! 

I then called my host, AzAel, and told him the problem. He doesn't speak any English, so I had to use my translator to communicate. Bless his heart, he hustled on over to the hotel, snatched up the bulk of my luggage, and proceeded--with a large and gracious smile--to walk me over to his place...fortunately only about a 10 minute stroll away. 

And...life has been grand ever since! I LOVE his casa. Unlike "camping" at Carlos' amidst the all-pervasive filth, AzAel is meticulously clean. His place--even if a little sparse in furnishings and decor--is sparkling in cleanliness... so I am in heaven! Every little detail is attended to. My room is quite comfy and has absolutely everything I need for my two week stay: computer desk, bedside stand, chest of drawers, private bath and shower. The bed is comfy and a good amount of light comes in through the window. The only improvements needed are artwork for the walls, a rug for the cold tile floor and...well... a heater. Oaxaca gets down to the 50's at night, and these walls retain the coolness. While I imagine this is ideal in the summer, it chills my bones, accustomed as I am to the heat and humidity of Mazunte. 

So... I made a fun little trip with Carolina, AzAel's adorable 18 year old daughter, to the local Walmart. I purchased a pair of warm slippers and a small heater...now, it is truly "home sweet home"! I have had a great time wandering the streets of El Centro, the historic part of town in which this Airbnb is happily situated. 

The following photos--divided into categories in much the same fashion as my previous post--give you a good taste of my wonderful experiences thus far. 

To begin with, Monday was a continuance of El Dia De Los Meurtes--or Day of the Dead--only November 2nd is known as All Saint's Day. Couldn't tell any difference, truth be told! By all appearances, it was merely day two of the same holiday. Normally, in non-Covid days, there is a lot more activity--parades, entertainment and so forth. Unfortunately, because of Covid, everything is greatly toned down, and the celebration merely consisted of colorfully decorated streets and buildings, lovely flowers (the signature flower of this holiday being the Merigold) and the classic, fluffy sweet "pan" (a type of egg bread, far as I could tell.)

This massive icon of El Dia De Los Muertes was guarding the entrance to one of the major art institutes here in the city. Known for being a major art center in Mexico, Oaxaca is evidently replete with artisans of every sort, from painters to scultures to makers of every kind of craft, traditional and modern alike. 

I absolutely love the classic arches and brick walls of the historical district, made even more interesting and colorful with the holiday decorations. 

A typical side street, covered by colorful holiday flags. Love these cobblestone streets as well!

Yes, even the dead have to wear their "cubrebocas"! (literally meaning "mouth cover"--rather puzzling, since of course the mask needs to cover mouth and nose alike!)

One of the many colorful archways, adorned with multitudinous Marigolds and a smattering of other varieties of flowers. Inside... an alter to the ancestors. 

The dead love to survey the city streets! 

A colorful plaza, adjacent to one of the oldest,  most famous churches: Iglesia de Solidad. 

Who is more intimidating? The giant dead dudes, or the police?!

Cheery and lovely, many residents--such as my host--have the Marigolds in pots just outside the entrance to the casa.

Another wild tradition for the fiesta: the "pan", or bread... it is sold EVERYWHERE you look, in myriad sizes and shapes, all with the little "head of the dead" stuck in it for a decoration. Strange and wonderful, indeed!

My own humble little roll! It looks tasty but in fact is far too sweet and mostly consists of air!

Oaxacans: As previously mentioned, by far the best aspect of Mexico is its people. Latin people, in my experience, are warm, friendly and infinitely helpful. I have already met many delightful folks in this city, beginning with my wonderful Airbnb host and his gorgeous and sweet daughter, Carolina.

Carolina enjoys her home made tacos! Mexican style: very different from what you see in the U.S.

Dinner with dad, AzAel: more tacos! Clearly a household favorite. 

A fun scene I just happened to stumble upon in my wanderings: a photography session with this lovely model as she danced to the fantastic music being played by the two musicians. 

A lovely young lady selling a cart full of "pan" with her dad. I bought three; AzAel and Carolina, a bag full! So cheap: 3 pesos per piece, or about 16 cents each.

This could not have been a light load for the bread vendor to pedal through the streets! Most impressive rig, to be sure! (Carolina and AzAel, quite happy with their purchase! Classically, pan dulce is eaten with steaming mugs of the classic Oaxacan hot chocolate. YUM!)

Las Iglesias: Imposing Oaxacan churches are seriously prolific: seems to me there is practically one on every street corner! And every single one is unique as well as beautiful.... 

The most famous church of Oaxaca, this one is smack in the center. Meaning, it is the main feature of the zocalo, or town square, as is traditional. 

Finalemente, misc. street scenes: 

As with everywhere in the world, Mexico is watching and wondering...who will win? The man who wants to build the wall, or the one who, rather, would welcome all?!?! (yes, my little poem is unintentional but I like it!) 

As with everywhere in Mexico, colorful murals adorn the sides of buildings... love it!

I wish this decaf latte had tasted as good as it looked! Unfortunately, other than Starbuck's, I have as yet to find a decent cup of decaf in Mexico. Still, I hold out hope! 

UP NEXT IN PART TWO: A MAGNIFICENT HIKE INTO THE HILLS TO WATCH SPECTACULAR, FIERY SUNSET OVER THIS MAGICAL CITY!